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International Journal of Cosmetic Science 1987-Oct

Chemical reactions in perfume ageing.

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J M Blakeway
M L Frey
S Lacroix
M S Salerno

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Abstrè

Summary The interactions between a typical range of perfume materials, alcohol, water, air, elevated temperatures and daylight have been studied. The changes of composition, acidity, peroxide content and the formation of new molecules were followed. The stabilizing effects of UV absorbers, antioxidants and sequestering agents were examined; - the formation of acid reaction products was accelerated by air, temperature, daylight and the presence of natural products; - peroxide formation was accelerated by heat and light and the presence of air; as the acidity increased, the peroxides decomposed; - the acetalization of other aldehydes was accelerated by temperature and daylight and the presence of natural products up to 40% of certain aldehydes may be converted into acetals after 3 months at 37 degrees C; - many stereoisomerizations occur, e.g., transisoeugenol is converted up to 10% into the cis isomer after 3 months at 37 degrees C and 58% in daylight; - evaluation of antioxidants UV absorbers and sequestering agents showed a significant protection against deterioration only by EDTA dipotassium salt; - ethanol was converted into acetaldehyde and its diethylacetal by peroxides present and formed on ageing up to 0.08%. Natural products accelerated this formation; - the reaction between benzoyl peroxide and ethanol was shown to yield up to 63% of acetaldehyde+diethyl acetal whilst di-t-butyl peroxide gave only 23% under the same conditions. These results go some way to explaining odour changes in perfume ageing.

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