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International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2010-Jun

The weak rate of sphingolipid biosynthesis shown by basal keratinocytes isolated from aged vs. young donors is fully rejuvenated after treatment with peptides of a potato hydrolysate.

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I Popa
N Abdul-Malak
J Portoukalian

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Abstrakcyjny

A new study was carried out to bring more information on the effect of the potato proteins ferment. Basal keratinocytes obtained from freshly excised skin samples of two groups of five donors, a young one (25-36-year-old) and an aged one (59-70-year-old) were established in culture. The results showed a downward trend in the content of all lipid fractions in untreated keratinocytes of aged donors when compared with young ones. We found major differences in the response of keratinocytes to potato proteins ferment treatment between young and old donors. Whereas the lipid content of cells from young donors increased either moderately or actually decreased in some cases in comparison with the untreated controls, the lipid biosynthesis was strongly stimulated in aged donors' keratinocytes whose lipid contents globally became close to those found in young donors. However, the changes elicited by potato proteins ferment treatment were not seen at the same extent for all lipid classes. Cholesterol content increased up to three-fold and alpha-hydroxy fatty acids were augmented up to seven-fold, whereas the increase in normal fatty acids was quite moderate. In sphingolipids labelled by incubation of keratinocytes in culture medium containing [(14)C]-serine, ceramides and glucosylceramides in cells from aged donors showed the highest uptake of radioactivity, with somewhat less incorporation in sphingomyelin and gangliosides. Therefore, it seems that potato proteins ferment has a much more potent stimulatory activity on the lipid biosynthesis of basal keratinocytes of aged donors, thereby normalizing the cellular lipid content that obviously decreases along with ageing. Although our results were obtained only with basal keratinocytes in this study, potato proteins ferment could be beneficial to maintain an efficient skin barrier in ageing people, provided that the peptides can get through to the basal membrane upon topical application.

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